03 Aug 2026
Riding the passes: altitude, water crossings and the chain
Above 3,500 metres the bike loses a fifth of its power and you lose more than that; ride a gear lower than feels right and drink before you are thirsty. Water crossings are worst in the afternoon when the snowmelt is up: walk it first if you cannot see the bottom, keep the revs steady and your feet on the pegs. And lube the chain every 500 km, because the dust up there eats an unlubed chain in a week.
Written from the verandah, with a cup of chai going cold.